How To Wire Your Car & Repair Faded and Cracked Plastic – Hands-On Cars 16 – Eastwood

How To Wire Your Car & Repair Faded and Cracked Plastic – Hands-On Cars 16 – Eastwood


on this episode of hands on cars Kevin
and his buddy TC install the wiring and plumbing in the camaro before repairing faded and broken
plastic thanks for watching hands on cars guess what today is its wiring day and
as much fun as this looks like it is not some people actually don’t mind this not
me because let’s face it 1978 it doesn’t seem like that long ago but has 35 year
old wiring though everything is dry rotted and crusty and on top of that
we’ve got the old glass tile fuses is somebody is somebody has hacked into and
and Lord knows what the issues are with this wiring systems so we’re going to 86 this short of a
couple of switches and a couple little miscellaneous pieces that we’re going to
keep and we got some help coming in two stages the first one being well I new
wiring check it out if you remember when we stopped in at the painless wiring
booth at LS best last time we were there well we stumble the park this system is
a direct fit system is really really nice it’s got the modern blade style fuses
and everything is terminated what that means is that you don’t have
to wire in any of the plug receptacle everything is plug and play it should
just lay right in the chassis and do exactly what it’s supposed to do which
is completely replace the old crappy system that we just throw on the floor
for this car to make it a little bit now when pain this is a complete kit
they’re not kidding this is ridiculously complete we’ve got bulbs and alternate
are dielectric grease uses connectors the headlight harness even some blade
connectors and a blower harness assembly we didn’t stop there this card’s power windows we got a
complete power window switch with relays this has got to be reliable for going to
beat the heck out of it on an autocross course or do cross country tracks with
it it has to be it has to be reliable and
thanks to painless it will be how to protect the wiring
what is laying in the chassis going to use power brake typically what
you find on the parts store shelf is this corrugated balloon and it’s not bad
but power brain is better it’s stronger it’s more pliable and it’s
much easier to put on the wires so we’ve got a complete power brake system that
they send as well as zip ties generous helping of shrink tube electrical tape
and self vulcanizing tape which melts into itself and makes a really nice hand
for your power braid lips the last piece of the puzzle is a
battery relocation kit it cleans up the front of the vehicle
under the hood and redistributes the battery weight over the rear axle so
this also came for a painless we’re good to go for part two the other
help I know you remember TC panic for bay 1
customs he’s an old friend and helped us with a body working of these s led
project is the captain of the ship of day 1 customs beautiful beautiful cameo
pickup truck all Eastwood products here we are again yeah so wiring talk to me about wiring a
lot of people are really intimidated meet with wiring how does the system
like this come in handy well I like the system
that you have having all three of them light out when we start this car that
way we can integrate in the main harness that i run the car the harness that i run the computer and
your air conditioner harness and near bank controller so we can kind of merge
all those together while we got it laid out here on the table and then while
installing the cars one unit but ok so you don’t take him piece at a time and
throw me and then connect them well you gotta kind of plan it out
because like we’re gonna put the battery in the trunk so that means that we’ve got a slight
the computer for the motor so we have to run to wire is dedicated
to the back so we can go ahead and set that up as we install it in in that
white along with the air conditioner of fan controller will probably control the
fan possibly with the computer for the motor but we need to go ahead and make
that plan so we’re going to start routing those wires before we put it in let’s see that’s what experiences and
thank you for helping us out and I’m here to learn so are the people watching hands of cars
thanks did where do we start well start by i’m getting my box
together I can’t stress enough i saw where they
sent the dialect of Greek yes Oh No needs in that because like if you
touch the terminal that’s exposed it doesn’t have a sheathing on it your hands start oxidizing it and then
once this goes down it’ll stop that oxidation in the end up like a good
solid contact forever yeah so that’s a good tip right there is
another good tip is to solder and heat shrink everything yeah if you put a wire in and you just crimp
it it’s going to oxidize it’s going to be all eventually so solder and heat
shrink everything I learned that lesson years ago on like a 70 survey all 68
Camaro if you take the front wiring apart
that’s what they’ve done it’s been it’s been tied together has been brought up
yep and that stuff’s been there for 30 40 years and I’ve never seen one fail so
it’s a tried and true method well perfect get down all right let’s go
do you think the – most beautiful looks brand-new doesn’t
hit us I’ll show you the process later it’s really cool you really did this – yourself yep well
this is a brand-new piece for national parts depot but all this is original
plastic Salisbury down to show you how it looks good thanks all right it looks like it’s gonna be a
tight fit but I think we’ll probably have some rain but they don’t have that
defrost duck works if you get hurt you know that we can go right in front of it I think you go right there the prospects here because they got that
one big duck that’s right here so as long as that they crossed is ok right
there we can put it right in here yeah all right all right we’ll just have
to see how big that big for us ducky isn’t that right don’t firewall
now this is the heart of the Vintage Air system this is the main hvac box now
we’re not ready to install this install this quite yet but we do have to mark it
up to make sure we got room for the wiring harness and most importantly the
engine computer even though we’re not ready to install
the air conditioning system yet mock-up is critical because we have to have room
for all the other wiring components especially the engine control computer TC starts with placing the main fuse box
in the factory location since the system is made for this car the taillight harness is separate and
gets fed through the factory balls in the rear body panel and then connected
to the main harness and that can sit there sound for the lights now I’m right
out my engine harness in here and now this is what I was talking about
previously about laying all this out for you get started I had to make sure that
my efi system didn’t have a controller for my fan at which it didn’t someone
using the raleigh fan controller but I want to integrate that into my harness
here so the raleigh fan controller comes with
this probe that needs to go into the head with a predetermined in elements
are more locate this in a close to the position of me to put this into the
motor and not have to splice ES and in doing so I’ve got to have a key power
source to control the s and i went ahead and put that in the fuse box before I
put this fuse block on the firewall because it’s so hard to get to and then
from there we’ll finish it why don’t this engine by i’ll be able to ground
system for the engine and for the aluminum radiator so we don’t create a
electrolysis for that radiator and have a good solid ground for the computer and
the battery all cars well so let me get to put this
wire and back in this engine bay and one of these days and say that in English
painless wiring has power braid which is a woman shield for their wiring
harnesses is tough easy to use and looks great having friends that are willing to help
out is a bonus but having super qualified people like TC from day one
customs man that hits it out of the park okay the magic of this national parks
people – pad shows itself right here this seam is perfect the factory ones they curl up they get
it damaged this fits beautifully you can only see the top i’m going to
show you the rest of it and the rest of our refurbished – now this dash pad is an NPD exclusive
and they’ve done a beautiful job of it all the original plastic parts fit
perfectly against the – it gives it a nice rigidity as it soft Oh II feel
everything fits great it comes molded in black but the – does
not here’s the color of desolated can remember look how crappy that looks this stuff
looks brand new nobody repops this this is refurbished
and the way we refurbished it is with plastic resurfacer now this isn’t paint
it actually embed itself into the plastic edges in its its opaque it’s not
really a black paint you got to layer it up but it becomes part of the plastic it won’t scratch off like paint it’s not
like that interior die and it’s certainly not like that stuff that you
sponge on there and is essentially a high-profile wheel dressing this
actually changes the – and i’m gonna show you how to use it
plastic resurfaces one of those products that the more i use the more i
absolutely love it and it’s really easy to use especially on black parts these are turn signal bezels for the
front fascia and their original and they’re all crusty and faded and these
are brand new headlight bezels that we got from the webbernet and they look
great they even fit pretty good but they’re gonna be chalked up like those
in about 12 minutes as soon as they hit the Sun so we’re gonna hit him with the
plastic resurfacer but they need a little bit of prep first cleanup starts
with a little bit of pre-painting prep rinse them down and wipe them off that
gets rid of any mold leasing agent and get a prep for the
plastic resurfacer very simple you got to remember this is gonna be in
multiple coats it’s translucent and you’re not going to see full coverage
even on the black plastic parts it’s just not going to fully cover very
first coat in a perfect world we’d stretch this
work out over the next 18 weekends but we’re under a time crunch we gotta make a couple of car shows and
LS fest as well as get this silly thing running while there’s still no snow on
the ground I don’t know drill the holes too big call for them okay not every screw-up is
a catastrophe and over drilled the holes but we figured it out inside the balloon
assembly we got stainless steel fasteners slathered up with silicone so
it’s not going to leak and we’ve noted on the backside so we’ve got four studs
kicking out what we did this for was to mount the Holley Dominator ECU which is
the engine controller and the transmission control right here it’s nice and out of the way and we got
access to all the plugs on the backside shipped safely covered with masking tape well i’m an idiot and drill too many
holes just not these guys atc wake up man I drilled for the wrong holes for
that’s involved in a row no it’s not I did it after I recovered
from the step drill incident I feed the engine harness through the
hole in the firewall and got it all sealed off of the grommet which serves
as a highway of source for everything from the battery cable since the
batteries in the trunk now to the hvac harnesses and other wiring stuff that
needs to find the engine bait the hvac hoses get plumbed unseen behind the
fender this is a nice job of cleaning up the
engine bait one of the biggest failures are saying wiring harnesses on the
install the wire crimping and most of the time it comes with this little
plastic barrel over this terminal and when it gets cramped unless you know exactly where that party
is entitled side that terminal it gets creamed to the side of wire and it
doesn’t make good solid cream that looks ok on the outside but on the inside it’s
not cramped well so what I like to do is take these terminal ends I remove the plastic off problem and
then I know exactly where the location of that that part is in that terminal then I’ll
take the wire trim it back a little bit but the terminal in on there and I and
and having that off i can see exactly where to set that in my crimpers and
when I crimp it it makes me a nice little bit for my solver to go in now
when you do these female ends it’s very crucial that you stand them up
so these the cutters that I have it’s really handy to use them to help hold
that to keep that up in the air for your solder and grab the solder and take the
heat put on the back side of it just like if you’re a soldering copper when
the solder hits the sand is this cool that’s going to draw that sword or
straight into your terminal joint right there put your feet on there pull it in if you
get a little bit too much on it as soon as it’s still hot you can tap it like
that knocks the excess solder off it’s a nice
little joint but just be aware when you’re inside the car in and sometimes
it’s hard to keep that wire straight up in the air like that if you if it’s pointing down and you go
to solve your sword is gonna run right into your space your terminal in there
and they you want me to put your state back into that because of people to
solder all right once i get my family and
soldered in place the way I want it then I taken use scissors to cut this heat
shrink if not it will distort the end of the heat shrink it’s hard to get on your
wire then just flip it flip it over and i usually put it right up to the edge take the heat gun and that makes a nice solid terminally
in for your wiring harness that will give you a long life and good service all right this is basically all the
tools you’re going to need to do all your soldering crimping first off you’re
going to need a soldering gun i like to use the small lightweight soldering gun next you’ll need a cut and Ike and
crimper nice combination next you’re going to need the wire
stripper I use the scissors for cutting my heat shrink but so you get that nice
clean cut on that each strength we have a rosin core electrical solder i
like to use a smaller solder it works a lot better with those small term
millions are dielectric grease that’s a must especially on your battery
terminal ends keep that a battery life lasts a lot longer if you put that on
your batteries are millions and then wire ties so they do the basic tools
that you’re going to need you can pick up most of these tools at Eastwood so
now let’s go to work all right these blocks come with the
vintage Eric it and it contains the high and low side AC lines and 258 heater
hose lines that go to the heater core now we can hang that hvac box for the
last time because all of this stuff is now going to be covered up and hid we’ve got everything routed engine
harness we’re really making some good progress and TCS doing most of the work well we’re underneath their fit button
up the underside are going to come out of torque and harder we’re going to hook up our knock sensor
o2 sensors and get some shift to work done i’m getting the wired in for the
transmission controller and they won’t start this brake lines drive shaft and
that’ll be about it helpful to us on the ground for all the torque converter is
new from tci and increases the stall speed – 2400 RPM which will really help
get the sled moving I’m helping by rotating the engines OTC
can find the flex plate bolts and tighten them up 50 chair has this new
easyclip line system which allows you to seal the AC lines without a crimping
tool or taking it to a store everything you need comes with the kit and you can
custom route your lines one time the first time thanks for the chair after the heater
hoses the hvac box is done and we can install the – but there’s a broken vent so it’s time
for the eastwood hot stapler kit this repair kit can save a restoration since
the parts are not available after market the stable acts as a split and melts
into the part adding strength after they’ve cooled the ends get
trimmed and we’re ready to install a – without any rattles well that was an amazing couple of days
thank you so much to TC panic and a 1 customs for coming and lending his
expertise to some more great progress on this build and the Vintage Air system well you follow the instructions and you
can put it in your driveway there’s nothing really more complicated
than just knowing how to read and kind of knowing the layout of these systems
the Holley Dominator efi system it’s plug and play there’s a few
connections that we got to make under the hood but it’s going to it’s going to
allow us to run this car without a chassis dyno without tuning itself
learning and then we can go a little little further if we want to get more
high performance painless wiring the wiring system in this car i’m looking at tags here from the
factory dome light ground kick panel switch and headlights which have got a
bolt in my point is painless wiring made it painless they live up to their name
so this led is well on its way yes there’s more wiring work to do but the
car is here it’s not just an empty shell anymore i’m
getting excited just thinking about it we’re not far from firing the sucker up
so hopefully in the next episode of hands on cars you’re gonna see some you can see some
ignition happen and this thing start to the heat up and let’s see what leaks for
now i’m kevin gates thank you guys for watching hands on
cars remember i subscribe to us on YouTube we’re having a lot of fun making these
shows but where were trying real hard to give you guys some good information
hopefully we’ve done that as well remember eastwood.com log on to eastwood
we got the tools that you need to do the job right and by golly this is shaping up i think
we’re doing the job right I got more work to do yeah